Spartan Combat Arts

BlackSword Manual of Arms

This manual is intended as an introduction and guide to the study of the Combat Arts as they may have been practiced in Ancient Greece. We study and practice in much the same way as you may have encountered in other martial arts in which you may have participated. We learn and attempt to perfect our art with a systematic approach that includes slow work and other drills at less than full speed and power. Where we differ from most martial arts practiced in the United States today is that we “test” our skills at full speed and power. We wear protective armor that mimics ancient armor. We fight with wooden weapons made to mimic the weapons of the ancients. The armor is very protective and combined with the broad (1.25”) striking surface of the wooden weapons, allows us to fight at full speed and power with a very low incidence of injury. (Our most common injuries are sprains and strains caused by movement, rather than the impact of weapons.)

CONTENTS:

I. EQUIPMENT FOR TODAY'S ANCIENT WARRIOR

So you think that it might be fun to be an ancient warrior (with the stipulation that we are using wooden weapons and you don't have to really die!). But you wonder what you will need to get started. It seems to be a lot of gear to suddenly acquire, especially since you have not seen much of it at K-Mart. Well there are several ways to go about it depending on how good you are with your hands, how much spare time and patience you have, and the state of your finances. Though you can simply purchase everything that you will need, all at once, from various suppliers; I would recommend that you go about equipping yourself in stages:

STAGE ONE:

Things that are basic, are inexpensive, will always be needed, and will help you to tell if this is a pastime for you.

• Clothing: You will not need armor immediately, but you will need some clothes to work out in. A good way to start is to wear an inexpensive solid color (tan, red, or gold is best) sweat suit, black or brown boots or athletic shoes, and a simple tunic or tabard. Add to this an athletic cup, knee and elbow pads, and work gloves (again go for dark solid colors).
  
• Equipment: A stick: Rattan, or even better, a sledgehammer handle about 30" to 40" in length. This will be used for learning the sword cuts by striking the pell (dummy). A plywood shield (with simple strapping and no edging is fine for now since it will not be struck).

STAGE TWO:

You have learned something about the sport and you want to move ahead.

• Equipment: Sword: rattan for fighting. Shield with sturdy strapping and edging.
• Armor: You will need to make or buy some armor so that you can begin fighting. You can learn a lot about fighting without armor, but the thing that sets our group apart is the realism of our fighting - the fact that we fight full speed, with power in our blows. For this you will need the armor.It is important to pick a good, functional set of armor. The helmet is the most important choice at this point, because it is always visible, and difficult to disguise. The gauntlets are an important choice: poor gauntlets will be difficult to use at best and lead to injury at worst. The body armor can be a muscled cuirass or linothorax style. Molded plastic arms and legs are probably the quickest, easiest, and cheapest choice.

STAGE THREE:

You have been fighting a while, you are sure that this is the thing for you and you want to really do it right.

• Equipment: Make more and better weapons and shields: better balanced, better performing, better looking, and more period in style and appearance.
• Armor: Attempt to make (and/or purchase) armor as close to period appearance as practical or possible. Ditto for performance and good looks. It is also nice for it to match your persona.

ARMOR

AREAS THAT MUST BE ARMORED:

Head, neck, kidneys and short ribs, groin, breasts (for women), elbows, wrists, hands, and knees. I recommend that you cover a lot more than this, but that must be your decision. I recommend covering spine, shoulders, forearms, chest, thighs, and shins (all exposed bony areas).

***SEE OFFICIAL MARSHALATE RULES***

MATERIALS:

• Steel plate: Required for the helmet (14 ga). This is an excellent choice for all of your armor. Advantages: Relatively inexpensive, can be formed to fit the human body, cooler than some of the other choices. Disadvantages: RUST, and weight.
• Stainless Steel plate: Same as above but no rust, harder to dent, much harder to form.
• Leather: Advantages: Beauty, it may be more in keeping with a particular period or persona. Disadvantages: It can be lighter and less protective than steel plate or heavier and equally protective. It can rot, get moldy, and smell bad. It is difficult to form certain shapes.
• Coat of plates or scale: Advantages: May be more in keeping with a particular period or persona. Disadvantages: Hotter, heavier, less protective than steel plate. If mounted on leather it is susceptible to mold and rot, on cloth the plates tear loose.
• Aluminum plate: Advantages: WEIGHT, can look almost like steel if properly finished (or painted). Disadvantages: Cost (unless you can get scrap), easier to dent than steel (unless a special alloy). Not a period material for armor.
• Plastic: Advantages: Weight, durability, cost, and speed of construction. Disadvantages: very non-period material so it must be hidden from sight, covered or disguised. We disguise it by molding it into the shape of bronze armor and then painting it a bronze color.

Questions?
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Stratokles1@cs.com